I was staying at the Funky Mamaliga Hostel in Chisinau, a decent hostel for just a fiver a night. Chisinau is a cool city too, I wanted to stay a couple days but I meet David (French) and Tom German) in the hostel on my second morning. They too were hitchhiking.
They told me about a country I had never even heard about called Transistria or Prednestrovia, a breakaway state from Moldova. They planned on hitchhiking there that morning and I felt like joining them, some company on the road would be good. So I packed my bag and headed back on the road again.
We caught a ride fast enough from the airport. If you take a bus there then walk back down onto the main road where traffic would exit from the airport in the Tiraspol direction you will see a good spot with plenty of room.
Overall Rating : Good, plenty of room but traffic is fast.
Waiting Time : 20 Mins
As with all native Russian speaking people he spoke away in Russian regardless of the fact we didn’t understand. Russians will speak Russian until you speak Russian, simple as.
We gathered he was from Traninistria and proud of it too, we had our own local tour guide, which is probably how we managed to skip across the border relatively easily.
For more information about the border and money exchange see getting into Transnistria.
Transinistria is essentially a small slender strip of land between a Moldovan River and Ukraine. On the way to Ukraine we would mostly just see the capital city of Tiraspol and a little countryside. The city is chillingly communist with statues of Lenin, Russian Tanks, Soldiers and everything in Russian. It’s a cool experience to see the very quiet town of Tiraspol if only for a few hours.
We got our new friend to leave us off in what seemed like a city center so we could explore. Immediatley after stepping out of the car it was obvious we were outsiders. Especially David, (he’s black) the locals would stare confused looking and one kid even asked for a photo with him.
There are some gorgeous looking young girls here (dressed 90s style) and all of the guys seemed friendly as we strolled around. One group stopped to have a smoke with us and take a photo. The language barrier is unreal though, no-one speaks anything but Russian here and everyone seemed shy. When we had food in the one restaurant we could find it just had a Russian menu too. I didn’t see any ATMs either.
When it came time to head for Ukraine after eating some dinner we just started walking again and thumbing. People looked a bit scared in the cars though especially with a black guy (the only one in the country ever probably).
In the end a police officer came over to us, he signaled to wait then flagged down a mini-bus and ordered the guy to take us to the Ukraine border. We gave the driver like 3 euro in Moldovan money and everyone was happy.
It was a strange yet interesting experience in the country that dosen’t exist called Traninistria, it felt very Soviet and I felt like a celebrity there. I would like to go back someday and speak to the locals about their lives living inside this little territory with little chance of ever leaving. Learning of Russian would be needed though first.
Once across the Ukraine border we began hitchhiking again, it was surprising how easily we walked the border considering there was a civil war happening in Eastern Ukraine at the time. There was a lot of soldiers around too. Possibly fearing an attack from the Pro-Russia made up country of Transinistria. The border police just laughed at us “Silly Westerner with big bagpack haha, we have bigger problem to fix then bother check their passport”.
We didn’t have any success hitchhiking however, two fat Ukranian men pulled over and simply made money symbols with their hands before we realized we would need to pay. In the end we had to bargain a deal on the side of the road to exchange some Euros, and then pay for a lift to Odessa.
Ukraine sure wasn’t being the most welcoming country.
Overall Rating : Bad, unless your a girl since local girls seemed to not have to pay. This is a bit risky too as many of the old men around the border were considerably dodgy looking.
Waiting Time : Probably not long, like 15 mins once you offer some money to chip in towards the Petrol cost, anywhere from 5 euro to 10 euro should suffice for Odessa.
The roads are horrible in Ukraine with potholes the size of craters but on the other hand the trains are very cheap. Travelling hundreds of km for about 10 euro on comfortable sleeper trains is possible. I would recommend this rather then the hitchhiking (unless you speak Russian). Maybe the atmosphere was only tense because of the trouble in Donetsk at the time.